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Right Font 5 5 4 Cr2 Drive

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DJ5 Postal Jeep

A 1976 DJ5. NOT mine.
The Jeep DJ, Dispatcher Jeep, Postal Jeep, or Mail Jeep, was originally built by the Kaiser Motors in the 1960's as a variant of the verable CJ series Jeep. The automotive branch of the business was sold to American Motors in 1970. The DJ series Jeeps were produced under AM General, of Kaiser-Jeep Corporation since 1971 (today still exists and manufactures the Hummer SUV), that handled millitary and government automotive programs. When AMC joined with Renault in 1980, a french company , the US government found it unacceptable to buy federal vehicles from a foreign company, so it forced AMC to spin off AM General as a separate company.
The DJ-5 series Jeeps were made from 1965 thru 1983 (or 1984, depending on your source). They were traditionally Right Hand Drive for postal carriers. Many used the long-running AMC strait-6 engine 3.8L & 4.0L, though earlier models used the contemportary kaiser drivetrains, and the post-1979 used various GM & Crysler 4-cylinders, and even a horrible Audi 4 in 1979 (had a tendency to overheat and blow). They were also only 2 wheel drive, with a strait tube axle in front (like a dana axle with the pumpkin removed). Some like mine even used kingpin front joints! But like all things AMC, or 'Any Make Construction', they used parts from a variety of sources, and changed from year to year. So identifying the exact model of your DJ and exactly what replacement parts you need can be tricky. Luckily, there are parts sources that are very helpful in that area. See bottom.
To correct a common misconception: The DJ5 is NOT 'just a CJ with a hartop and 2wd.' The DJ5 does share many common parts with the contemporary CJ series, but it is unique enough to not be considered a 'modified CJ.'
Today, a small percentage of the DJ-5's are still in service, and many are still being used as postal delivery vehicles. especially out west. There were a few sources in the 1980's that would acutally rebuild your DJ5 to 'like new condition' for continued use. one of these companies used a fiberglass body like a kit car (see photos section)!! There are a few parts sources servicing the DJ's (see below), and most parts are available.
But the DJ is not considered highly desirable for many reasons: They are spartian metal cans with no creature comforts. They are downright squirly to drive, their short wheelbase (81'?) enhances the effect, making driving one a contstant excersize in correction, lest you end up in a ditch. And they are top heavy with the metal roof and doors. A few folks have restored them for nostalgia sake, a few have hotrodded them, and others like me just wanted one to drive.
Why did I get a postal jeep in 2011?
Well, first I am currenly into old and unusual Jeeps. Perhaps because I manufacture just about every plastic part in the current Jeep JK so I am exposed to the culture more than the normal joe. But I like odd and unique cars. And I recall my postman when I was little, Mr. Gabriel, driving his around every day thru my neighborhood. So Nostalgia. And they are really cheap to buy, and our second kid took care of what was left of 'disposable income.' Cheap, easy, and available.
PLUS, I have had an idea to make a hotrod/ratrod out of a Jeep DJ running gear and frame, and this one might donate to that project someday when I have more time! Crazy, I know. Why use a DJ? Again, odd and unique cars.
I recommend doing Wiki searches on Jeep DJ, American Motors, and Kaiser-Jeep for more info on the DJ5. See additional links at the bottom.
MY 1983 DJ-5L:
Bought it from a guy who was using it as a Michigan football tailgating car. I am sure it got lots of attention. But that had to go, since I am a loyal OSU Buckeyes fan! I stripped all the yellow decorations off, leaving it gray and blue, and the paint is pretty ratty now. Planning on going with a white or silver vinyl sticky stripe down the sides to cover the ugly paint line. But really that is all I plan to do. I am just going to work on the mechanicals and drive it as-is. I bought it for the experience, not as a restoration project.
Upon investigation, I believe my DJ might have been a rebuilt DJ. In the late 70's and 80's, there were several DJ 'rebuilders' across the country - shops that would rebuild and refresh your DJ for continued use. There was even one that made all new fiberglass body kits for them! I believe mine to have been rebuilt at some point. It is a parts-bin assembly of about 5 different DJ models! Not to mention some patch panels, refinished and painted frame rails, bondo slapped unceremoniously throughout the body, etc, etc.
Specs:
Late-70's 258 4.2L 3.75 L-6 engine
Late-60's B-W M-11 tranny (steel case, separate bellhousing)

6/21/2014: SOLD the postal jeep. Time to Move on. But I will leave this page here.

Note the Ford Ranger seats.

Some useful links:
parts source: http://stores.ebay.com/POSTAL-JEEP-PARTS-PLUS?_trksid=p4340.l2563
Owner/project page: http://www.curbsideclassic.com/the-very-many-cars-of-my-life/the-cars-of-a-lifetime-1981-amg-dj5-the-mailman-never-knocks/
Owner/project page: http://www.freelabs.com/~whitis/mailjeep.html
Owner/project page: http://theamcforum.com/forum/1979-dj5-postal-jeep-project_topic25136_page1&SID=b322a458-3174-ba79zc2e-2cf28c22-9f63943e.html
Hotrod DJ5 project: http://www.offroadfabnet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7568
Fiberglass DJ5 Owner: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3820565/1976-jeep-dj
Fiberglass Jeep rebuilder in the 1980's.
MY HOTROD/Race-car/Rat Rod inspiration photos:

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Download 54 Free Old English Fonts. 1001 Free Fonts offers a huge selection of free Old English Fonts for Windows and Macintosh. Lego is a Danish toy production company based in Billund that produces plastic toys. The company is famous for its Lego bricks. The font used for the Lego logo is very similar to LegoThick, which is a free fan made font based on the logo itself.

If you were formatting a book – just the inside – you'd have to choose a strong, perfect body font for the main paragraphs and a complimentary and interesting font for titles, subtitles and chapter headings.

Except you don't really need to do that, because (I assume) you've already put together an amazing cover design, and your cover design (I hope) already uses a perfect, brilliant font that suits the genre for the main title.

Which means – when you begin formatting your interior layout, you don't really have to make any difficult choices.

All you need to know about book layouts…

The main mistakes I see on homemade, DIY or cheap/amateur book layout are:

1. Not enough space between lines and between elements like the headers, footer, page edges, and titles.

2. Really boring headers/chapter designs

Tumblekit v1 1 0 – decent client for tumblr. 3. TOO much decoration or strange fonts that don't agree with the cover design.

Luckily, there are a handful of very good, very strong body fonts that are tried-and-true. You don't want your body to be distinctive or stand out. You want it to look just like any other book in the bookstore. You want the text to be clean and readable. You want it to be invisible… so that people can get into your story.

Here are a few samples I just made up.

Note: I'm not suggesting you use these header fonts – the chapter heading fonts will depend on your book cover, but any of these body fonts are very good, very safe options.

Note 2: My design style is a little flashy. Generally first pages of chapters don't have headers or footers (nor page numbers), and the first paragraph has no indent. Some books have a page number on the center/bottom of chapter pages, and on the header of normal pages.

A dropcap on the first line is not absolutely necessary. Powerphotos 1 1 7 download free. All caps on the first six words or so is pretty common as well. I didn't add any special graphics in these, which I would normally probably do, because this post is about the text and font combinations.

Don't try to do too much on the chapter page… too many flashy elements is distracting. Pair an interesting, expressive font with a very basic sans-serif (sans-serif fonts make good chapter headings because they contrast with the body text, which should almost always be serif. Don't use two really artistic fonts. Use one only.

The body fonts on these range from 11 to 14, spacing is about 18 to 20 on most.

1. Adobe Caslon Pro (body)

Big Top (Chapter), 'Aaargh' (Subtitle)

2. Bembo (body)

IDDragonXing (Chapter)

3. ITC Baskerville (body)

Shopfront (Chapter)

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4. Minion Pro (body)

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Aaargh (Chapter)

5. Garamond Premier Pro (body)

Steelfish (Chapter)

6. Sabon (body)

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Quicksand (Chapter)

Sabon (body, example 2)

Humanst521LtEU (Chapter)

7. Dante MT (body)

5 5' Height

Amor Sans (Chapter), Bickham Script (Dropcap)

8. Franklin Gothic Medium (body)

Downcome (Chapter)

Sidify apple music converter 1 0 8 download free. Note: You don't usually want to use a sans-serif for body text like #8… but in some genres – mostly children or YA, it might be OK.

You probably noticed almost all the examples look pretty much the same. Any of them are good choices.

The first paragraph should start about halfway down the page. Leave lots of open space on the top half.

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Need some free body fonts?

The ones I mentioned up above are premium fonts, but you can also try these free, almost as good alternatives. I have a list of 27 free fonts to use in your book formatting HERE.

EB Garamond-download Tipard dvd ripper for mac 9 2 12 download free.

Of course there are other lovely fonts to choose from. But your book formatting is not a place to do a lot of experimenting or risk-taking. Some fonts have just a tad more character that may align more closely with a specific book… but unless you're a designer – and even then! Apple 10 13 1. – you should probably go with one of these to be safe.

Need more help?

Visit www.diybookformats.com for free book formatting templates, some tutorial videos and tons of free bonuses!

EXTRA RESOURCES

Have another font you absolutely love, that deserves to be on this list? Share it in the comments!

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